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Saturday, July 26, 2014

Black Trumpets and True Chanterelles

 

Mushrooms hadn't really crossed my mind so far this year. Well, not since morel season (which we missed) anyway - we didn't go back to the place we found them last year, but G's family go there every year on Memorial Day weekend so I wanted him to check for them again (he didn't go either in the end)...

Anyway, coincidentally we went for a walk with M+G last weekend in Western Mass - similar kind of location to the morel find. Was all very unplanned - we found ourselves heading up Little Monadnock (hang on, actually that's in NH - just over the state line). And, right next to the lookout, I found a patch of black trumpets (Craterellus cornucopioides)! We'd eaten these once before with C+J, but never found them ourselves. Small and literally-named (they really are trumpet-shaped, and black); easy to pass by as they are well-camouflaged on the ground. They smell incredible - very rich, almost truffley. I picked them into S's hat, then kept plunging my face in there to inhale that heady aroma all the rest of our walk. We snacked on plentiful wild blueberries. On the way down we spotted a few chanterelles and added them to the hat - much easier to see than the trumpets owing to their large size and bright orange colour, but not growing in such a big group. After the walk we went to find a quarry to swim in, and on the way up to the quarry and the way back down we came across more chanterelles - we even found some right on the bank of the quarry! So, now we had one hatful of frilly orange mushrooms, and another hat full of delicate, velvety black ones.

When we got back we consulted our books, to be sure of identification (both these species are really distinctive so there wasn't much of a question), and for tips on cooking. We had a good amount of both kinds of mushroom, so we decided to just saute them (after a good clean - the trumpets especially can hide all sorts of bugs and leaves and dirt down inside their holes) together with a smidge of garlic, finish off with butter, salt and pepper, and see how that went. Trumpets have a stronger flavour than chanterelles - complementary though, and not overwhelming. But trumpets also tend to collapse into little floppy black blobs, while chanterelles are more robust and hold their shape and texture better. So they made a good team. The trumpets especially seemed to release a lot of liquid, and by the time it cooked off the mushrooms were quite shrunken. We tossed the saute through spätzle (the bought kind, through laziness), and it made a simple but excellent dinner.

Note: these were true chanterelles (Cantharellus cibarius): larger, more robust and more brightly orange than the related Winter Chanterelles (Craterellus tubaeformis) we found previously. Similar in taste, but the true chanterelles are firmer and hold their shape better when cooked - the Winter Chanterelles are almost like a hybrid between true chanterelles and black trumpets in texture and appearance.
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